Palau is simply idyllic! As an archipelago of over 300 islands and numerous fringe reefs, the variety of dive sites and biodiversity of marine life is truly exceptional. A labyrinth of about 200 islands in its southern lagoon, known as the Rock Islands, includes a high concentration of great dive sites. These unique mushroom-shaped islands are gorgeous in a sort of magical way. Mantas, dolphins, and several species of shark are common pelagics at a number of sites; Napoleon (humphead) wrasse can be found. There are many different species of clownfish, and I often saw several types on each dive, patrolling their anemones. The anemones and myriad soft corals are quite spectacular themselves, colorful and distinctly shaped. Giant clams, some of which are endangered, are riotously beautiful, growing to over 3 feet and living to about 100 years; many are simply electric in their colorations. You can hunt for the elusive Mandarin fish. Palau is also famous for Jellyfish Lake, an isolated inland saltwater lake within the rock islands, in which abundant jellyfish who have lost their sting to evolution as they’ve been isolation from predators. In a separate and controlled outing, the Palau marine park allows you to snorkel Jellyfish Lake; this will forever remain a highlight of my life!

Topside, I found several cultural attractions are very worthwhile. Around the main island, of which Koror is the capital (and where most dive resorts are located), you can tour either an authentic historic Bai, or a replica of one, which were the traditional meeting houses for village chiefs. These A-framed structures are elaborately decorated and painted, depicting local legends and history. If looking to bring something home, a local art form involves carved wooden storyboards, each of which describes a story or legend about Palauan culture or teachings; they are artistic treasures and purchasing one is a lovely way to remember your trip. Odd as it may sound, some of the best quality storyboards are found at the jail in Koror (inmates hand down the skills); it’s a mandatory stop in my opinion. Farther south in the islands is Peleliu, site of a horrific WWII battle between the Allies and Japan; a privately guided land tour was humbling and amazing. Tanks, machine guns, and other battle paraphernalia are slowly being reclaimed by the jungle, as if paying homage to the struggle. Peleliu is accessible only by boat, and most dive operators include this option, as there are several great dive sites there as well.

You can also spend a day or afternoon kayaking around the Rock Islands.

Land-based resort options are numerous and range from budget-conscious to luxury. Dive operators such as Neco Marine and Sam’s Fins cater to the resorts conveniently; many packages can be arranged with resort and diving combinations, and most resorts are on beaches with piers for mooring the dive boats. Dining options are plentiful, at the resorts and throughout Koror, including Palauan and Micronesian seafood, as well as Japanese, Indian, Thai, Italian, and many other cultural cuisines. Kramer’s is a fun, laid-back restaurant frequented by ex-pats and tourists alike, with more of a pub-grub style menu, very good food, and decent prices. One of the nicest things about land diversions, whether exploring, shopping, dining, or seeking some night excitement, is the public bus system on Koror: a hop-on, hop-off approach which is efficient, economical, and extensive in their hours of operation. Between the bus system and private taxis, I got around quite easily. There are a few live-aboard options as well.

Favorite dive sites of mine include German Channel, where 3 of us were privileged to enjoy an extended private encounter with a couple of mantas one afternoon; Chandelier Caves, which are not so much caves as a series of caverns or “rooms” full of stalactites (you don’t need cave-diver certification for this), any of a number of walls, and most certainly Jellyfish Lake which is so other-worldly it is nearly impossible to describe.

Getting to Palau can take 2 or 3 days, depending on your starting base. It’s notably hot, and quite humid. Rain showers are common but short and fleeting. Divers come from many countries, and especially from Japan, as it is close by. Dive operators typically separate divers into groups by language, with Japanese-speaking and English-speaking guides. Water temperature is warm enough that I became spoiled diving without a wetsuit, or just board shorts and a vest. Visibility is typically 100 feet plus. Dives can range from shallow to quite deep, with numerous walls, and some currents (a few of which involved reef hooks). I think Palau is ideal for experienced divers; novice divers may find some sites a bit challenging in terms of depth and currents. It ranks among my favorite dive locations in the world, and I can’t wait to go back!