Gems of Alor – Waow
BY TRISTYN HELDT
In Short, my Trip aboard the Waow in Indonesia was the trip of a lifetime!
Getting there
LAX on a Tuesday evening was a breeze. I was dropped off at 11:00pm. The Tom Bradley International terminal was very calm. I had booked my flight on China Eastern using the Bluewater Flight Consolidator. I got there early because I was receiving an error message while trying to check in online. To my great surprise, there were no issues when I got to the ticketing counter. Turns out it was just a online glitch. Our flight consolidator did an amazing job making sure I was assigned the requested Window seats and a vegetarian meal. The flight departed at 1:00am which was perfect because I was ready to sleep. I woke up refreshed and ready for my lay over in Shanghai.
After a successful day at Shanghai Disneyland I was back at the airport ready to board at 6pm. I was very impressed by China Eastern’s service. On time and relaxed. I am only 5’6 and don’t take up much room, but I found the seats to be very comfortable in economy. The food was good too. I arrived on time in Denpasar, Bali at 1am. I collected my bags and was through customs by 1:45. Immediately as you exit customs there are long lines to exchange money. I chose to walk around the corner and voila! There was a second exchange station without any line at all. For my connection to Maumere I had to walk from the international to the domestic terminal. A short walk, but it was very dark and I was alone. Along my way I had my first bat sighting! Startling as they flew very close past my face, but cool. I wish I had known the domestic terminal was not open 24hrs. I would have stayed in the international terminal overnight. But once you exit you can not go back. From 2am-5am I waited outside of the domestic terminal on a bench. I would opt to get a hotel for the night next time. Once the doors were open and I was inside the terminal I dropped off my luggage asap. I was very concerned when I first got the quote of how much my overweight baggage was going to cost… 260,400.00 IDR… but turns out it only cost about 20.00 USD. Love that exchange rate! I spent the next couple of hours exploring the terminal and giggling at the amazing advertising in the gift shops. I boarded the Lion Air flight to Maumere at 8:45am. It was a swift 1.5hr flight. I met my fellow passengers and we were greeted by the Waow crew. They arranged for us to be taken to the ship in nice air conditioned vehicles. It was only a 15 minute ride to the dock.
Immediately I knew which ship the Waow was because it was the only one that literally made me say “Wow!!” It was massive in comparison to any other ship.
The Waow Ship was nothing less than spectacular in every sense of the word. I mean this thing was made by hand with Iron wood as they did back in the day, by the village who were known as the pirates of Indonesia. It took over 4 years to build and they did it without plans! (Maybe if they had plans it wouldn’t have taken so long, lol) Never the less it was and is impressive.
From the moment we stepped on board I knew I was in for something special. Immediately, we were offered cool towels and a welcome beverage. Reto the and Lorine the cruise directors, split us up by deck and walked us to our rooms. We were given some time to settle in, then we met on the main deck for introductions and a briefing.
The trip was a complete FAM trip. 7 passengers total it was a light load. I was fortunate enough being 1 of 2 girls to be upgraded to the Deluxe cabin which was on the main deck and had its own semi private lounge area. Which I used to its full extent. My neighbor and friend Petra would share a cup of tea and watch the sunrise before our morning dive. Between dives, we scheduled massages ($30 for an hour) on the outdoor lounges. We were given a tour of the full ship and although I loved my deluxe cabin, I would have been perfectly satisfied with the regular cabin which was just as spacious. The only difference being port holes rather than windows and outdoor lounge area. The semi private lounge area did come in great use after each dive I was able to hang dry my swim suits and gear before the next dive. With that being said, there was plenty of space on the main deck for the standard room sleepers.
This being my first liveaboard I did not realize shoes were not to be worn… I could have saved a lot of space in my suitcase had I known. I am still shocked by how spic and span the deck stayed. I would look at my feet before getting into bed after dinner thinking I would need to wash them, after all, I had been walking around barefoot all day long, but they were always so clean! Like, fresh after a pedicure clean.
The rooms are extremely spacious and I would have no problem sharing a room. The storage space is seriously note worthy.
The Diving was excellent and varied from Wide Angle to Macro. There are so many islands in Indonesia if a person were to request to see/dive every island, they would need 40 years worth of vacation to see it all. Gems of Alor tour offers a nice variety of coral reefs, walls and muck diving. The Muck diving is awesome without being too polluted. Many dive locations could have been advertised as either macro or wide angle. I would agree it is an intermediate to advanced dive destination. The currents are very strong. 1 dive in particular was almost too strong for a few of the guests. I felt it was an adventure in underwater diving personally, but I think it is important to advise clients accordingly on our end.
I was very fortunate to bring along my Kraken Setup. Although top side I am a Videographer. Underwater photography is still very new to me. While I enjoy underwater photography I was not prepared to carry a full set up consisting of things like the Kraken Sports Hydra 15000 WRGBU video light or a full strobe package overseas. The Kraken Sports Smart Phone Housing is a fantastic option for anyone like myself. An enthusiast, without any intent to submit to National Geographic anytime soon.
Day 1: September 16, 2017
Dive 1: East Flores
Site name: Serbete East
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
We were anchored off the atoll of Point Serbete.
FISH: Black and White tip Reef sharks, Dog Tooth tunas, Great Barracudas, Moral eel, Fusisliers, Damsel Fish, Anthias, Wrasses, Midnight snappers, Surgeon Fish, Humbhead banner fish.
CRUSTACEAN: Bubble Coral shrimp
MOLLUSK: Day octopus
Dive 2: East Flores
Site name: Serbete East
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Eagle rays, Black and white tip reef sharks, Dog tooth tunas, Rainbow runners, Great barracudas, Anthias, Wrasses, Midnight snappers, Humbhead banner fish, Moray eel.
Dive 3: North Adonara
Site name: Krokos
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: White tip reef shark, Batfish-juvenile, Black snappers, Surgeon fish, Damsel fish, Wrasses.
Day 2: September 17, 2017
Dive 4: South west Solor
Site name: Pulau Besar
Visibility: 10M
Current: Mild
FISH: Black and white tip reef sharks, Black snappers, Fusiliers, Scorpion fish, Surgeon fish, Damsel fish, Blennies.
CRUSTACEAN: Banded shrimps, Lobsters
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Chamberlain nembrotha
MOLLUSK: Day octopus
REPTILE: Turtle
Dive 5: South West Solor
Site name: Nuha Watu
Visibility: 10M
Current: Mild
FISH: Black and white tip reef sharks, Black snappers, Fusiliers, Scorpion fish, Banner fish, Surgeon fish, Damsel fish, Blennies.
CRUSTACEAN: Banded shrimps, Lobsters
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Chamberlain nembrotha
MOLLUSK: Day octopus
REPTILE: Turtle
Dive 6: South West Lembata
Site name: Suanggi Batu Mandi
Visibility: 10M
Current: Mild
FISH: Black and white tip reef sharks, Baby white tip reef sharks, Black snappers, Fusiliers, Scorpion fish, banner fish, Surgeon fish, Damsel fish, Blennies, Spotted soup fish.
CRUSTACEAN: Banded shrimps, Lobsters
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: T-bar nudibranch
Dive 7: West Lembata
Site name: Ice Factory (ND)
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Ornate ghost pipe fish, Robust ghost pipe fish, Scorpion fish, Frogfish, Lion fish, Long horn cow fish, File fish, Dragonet, Napoleon snake eel, Sole fish.
CRUSTACEAN: Hermit crabs, Orangutan crab, Spider crab,
MOLLUSK: Long arm octopus, Cuttlefish,
REPTILE: Banded sea snake
Day 3: September 18, 2017
Dive 8: North Lembata
Site name: Simurerang ‘The Edge’
Visibility: 20M
Current: Mild
FISH: Mobula ray, Black and white tip reef sharks, Napoleon wrasses, Moray eel, Lion fish, Black snappers, Ribbon sweetlips, Blue fin fusiliers.
Dive 9: North Lembata
Site name: Bacatan Ridge
Visibility: 20M
Current: Mild
FISH: Black and white tip reef sharks, Napoleon wrasses, Moray eel, Lion fish, Black snappers, Ribbon sweetlips, Blue fin fusiliers, Fire dart fish, Blue spotted stingray.
MOLLUSK: Giant clam.
Dive 10: North East Lembata
Site name: Gapura Walajar
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: White tip reef sharks, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Redtooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips,
CRUSTACEAN: Zanzibar whip coral shrimp,
MOLLUSK: Cuttlefish
Dive 11: North East Lembata
Site name: Gapura Walajar
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Denise pygmy seahorse, Bargibanti pygmy seahorse, Long nose hawk fish, Anemone fish, White tip reef sharks, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips.
CRUSTACEAN: Porcelain crab.
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Chamberlain’s nembrotha, Flatworm
Day 4: September 19, 2017
Dive 12: Pura Island
Site name: Board Room
Visibility: 20M
Current: Mild
FISH: Eagle ray, White tip reef sharks, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips, Anthias, Lion fish, Blue ribbon eel, Moray eel, Long fin batfish.
CRUSTACEAN: Porcelain crab,
REPTILE: Banded sea snake
Dive 13: East Pura
Site name: Great wall of Pantar
Visibility: 20M
Current: Strong
FISH: Napoleon wrasses, Bumbhead parrot fish, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips, Anthias, Lion fish, Blue ribbon eel, Moray eel, Long fin batfish, Black snappers
REPTILE: Banded sea snake
Between Dives Lorine and I went for a “Ocean clean up” paddle board ride. Muck dives are great, but often they come with lots of garbage. The stuff on the bottom usually gets taken over by critters but the stuff on top is just unbecoming for the beautiful waters of Indonesia. We paddled for about 15 minutes and managed to collect a full bag of trash.
Dive 14: Pura
Site name: Pak yan’s
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Rhinopias, Sweetlips, Jawfish, Lionfish, Scorpion fish.
CRUSTACEAN: Banded shrimp
MOLLUSK: Day octopus
Dive 15: Pura
Site name: Pak yan’s (ND)
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Rhinopias, Sweetlip, Lion fish, Scorpion fish.
CRUSTACEAN: Hermit crabs, Spnge crab, Decorated crab, Spider crab, Banded shrimp.
MOLLUSK: Cuttlefish,
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Girdled glossodoris, Forskal’s pneurobranch, nembrotha, Flatworm.
Day 5: September 20, 2017
Dive 16: Pura
Site name: Clown Valley
Visibility: 20M
Current: Slight
FISH: Yellow tail barracudas, Sweetlips, Snappers, Damsel fish, Anthias, Bonito, Clown fish, Surgeon fish
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Sea apple
Dive 17: Pura
Site name: Point & Shoot
Visibility: 25M
Current: Mild
FISH: Bluefin trevally, Humpback snappers, Five line snappers, Red fin bream, Long face emperor, Damsel fish, Blue stike fusiliers, Gold band fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angelfish, Ribbon sweetlips, Anthias, Lion fish, Black snappers, Red tooth trigger fish.
Dive 18: Reta
Site name: Babylon
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Map puffer fish, Long face emperor, Damsel fish, Fusiliers, Surgeon fish, Banner fish, Red tooth trigger fish, Angel fish, Ribbon sweetlips, Anthias, Lion fish, Black snappers, Red tooth trigger fish, Blennies.
CRUSTACEAN: Candy crab
Dive 19: Alor
Site name: Mucky Mosque (ND)
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Rhinopias, Sweetlip, Lion fish, Scorpion fish, Scorpion fish.
CRUSTACEAN: Zebra crab, Banded shrimp, Spider crab, Sponge crab, Porcelain crab.
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Spanish dancer, Flat worm discodoris.
Day 6: September 21, 2017 Pantar – Puri and Alor
Headhunters Village Visit: At dinner the night before the guests and I were offered the option to visit the last remaining head hunters village. Don’t worry, the do not practice headhunting any longer, but they do remain a tribe. We began our day taxiing in on the chase boat to the dock. We were met by some locals selling dried fish. We waited for our bus which was running behind schedule. We waited under a cashew tree for shade. I had no idea cashews grew on trees, like that. There were a few local kids who came to talk to us and take pictures. Not of us, but of them. They LOVE to have their photos taken and ask to see them after. Our bus arrived, and we loaded up. It is best not to expect anything other than the equivalent of an old school bus. Our first stop on the tour was to get a taste of culture in Alor. Which felt a little like a Native American presentation at Knotts berry farm, has moments of truth but a little campy. There was a woman weaving a scarf, a young girl combining leaves and flowers to make natural dyes and a woman pounding out kernels of corn over a fire pit. We got to sample the corn which tasted exactly like you would expect- popcorn… but flat. Soon a man with a one string guitar serenaded us, the experience felt staged but we had a good time.
Next stop was at a busy local market. My self appointed “personal body guard,” Gagap, walked me through the market and showed me local treats. Including a flat crispy wafer like, bread, drizzled in honey. On our 30 min drive towards the head hunter village I was admiring the water view on the right hand side of the bus. I happened to be seated on the left. After a few minutes I put my head down and wrote in my travel journal. We continued to drive along seemingly in a straight direction with no noticeable turns of any kind. The next time I raised my head I looked to the right and the water wasn’t there, somehow the water was now on my left. Not a lake either… the ocean. I am still confused how this happened.
We arrived at the village and were greeted by a few warriors in full traditional garb. They welcomed us and performed a little routine along the way. The structures in the village were traditional and showed little modernization. We gathered around a tree for a ceremonial performance. They sang and danced in a circular moving pattern, going around and around while chanting.
Reto our cruise director explained to us what was happening throughout. It was an offering ceremony to request permission to propose. The village finds great value in Moko drums and they are offered as a gift for a dowry when taking a bride. In the headhunters village it is preferred to give birth to girls over boys. Because having boys likely means your family will have to gift any Moko drums once received. Moko drums are a sign of status and prestige in the village.
As the ceremony continued we were invited to participate. I joined the circle and was taught the step dance. When it was over we were invited to explore the village a bit. I noticed not only in this village, but all over the country men and women having bright red mouths. Being the curious person I am, I finally asked when I noticed an older woman taking a little kit out of her woven bag. It is called Beetle nut. It gives people a buzz equivalent to six cups of coffee and is used variously as a symbol of love, marriage and a cure for indigestion and impotence. But it stains they heck out of your teeth! SO, naturally I tried some.
Dive 20: South West Alor
Site name: Light house
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Black snappers, Sweetlips, Blennies, Anthias, Scorpion fish, Moray eel,
CRUSTACEAN: Banded shrimp,
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Pacific thecacera, Gloomy tambja
Day 7: September 22, 2017
On the 19th I continued my SCUBA education and began my Nitrox certification. With the help of our Cruise director Lorine, I completed my training and am now diving with Nitrox.
Dive 21: South East Pantar
Site name: Bean Abang
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Napoleon snake eel, Crocodile snake eel, Larger spotted snake eel, Black saddle snake eel, Flouders,
Blue spotted sting ray.
MOLLUSK: Long arm octopus, Wunderpus octopus.
CRUSTACEAN: Banded shrimp.
Dive 22: South East Pantar
Site name: Bean Abang
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: File fish-juvenile, Baby bamboo shark, Long fin lion fish, Dragon sea mouth, Napoleon snake eel, Crocodile snake eel, Larger spotted snake eel, Black saddle snake eel, Flouders, Blue spotted sting ray. MOLLUSK: Long arm octopus,
CRUSTACEAN: Banded shrimp, Soft coral shrimp.
Dive 23: South East Pantar
Site name: Beang Abang/Hot Property
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Frog fish, rock mover wrasses, Great barracudas, Sailfin snappers, Flouders,Blue spotted sting ray.
MOLLUSK: Long arm octopus, Wunderpus octopus.
CRUSTACEAN: Banded shrimp, Hermit crab, Zanzibar whip coral shrimp, Porcelain crab.
Dive 24: South East Pantar
Site name: Beang abang (ND)
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Box fish-juvenile, Baby bamboo shark, Wash fish, Crocodile snake eel, Napoleon snake eel, Scorpion fish,
Flounders, Blue spotted sting ray.
MOLLUSK: Long arm octopus, Squid
CRUSTACEAN: Hairy shrimp, Banded shrimp, Hermit crab, Zanzibar whip coral shrimp, Porcelain crab.
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Blue dragon, Forskal pneuribranch, Flatworms discodoris, Phylodesmium.
Village visit:
Beang Abang, Alor
This Village was different than the others. Adults were nowhere to be found. The children however were very abundant. They greeted us and sang songs. One of which they wrote themselves, It was very sweet. We walked through the town together and the children brought us to the towns water well. The most stunning surprise from our visit was the Volcanic activity below the surface. We could see the sulfuric erosion in parts of the village and where the land met the sea, you can feel the HEAT from the flowing lava below. It was almost too hot to touch. You can see the steam when the cold waves crash against the sand. It was bizarre to say the least.
Day 8: September 23, 2017
Dive 25: South west Pantar
Site name: Alcatraz
Visibility: 15M
Current: Mild
FISH: Reef manta ray, Napoleon wrasses, Black snappers, long fin batfish, Lion fish, Scorpion fish, Damsel fish, Anthias
MOLLUSK: Giant clamp, Oyster
CRUSTACEAN: Pink squad lobster,
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: T-bar nudibranch, Phylidia.
Dive 26: Rusa Island
Site name: Rusa Pinnacle
Visibility: 25M
Current: Strong
FISH: Bargibanti pygmy seahorse, Dogtooth tuna, Bonito, Rainbow runners, Fusiliers, Lion fish, Scorpion fish, Damsel fish, Anthias
Dive 27: Rusa Island
Site name: Watubalu
Visibility: 10M
Current: Slight
FISH: Sweet lips, Snappers, White mouth moray eel, Blue spotted sting ray.
MOLLUSK: Long arm octopus, Squid
CRUSTACEAN: Banded shrimp
NUDIBRANCH & SLUGS: Blue dragon, Forskal pneuribranch, Flatworms discodoris, Phylodesmium
Day 9: September 24, 2017
Dive 28: West lembata
Site name: Waiwowang mangrove
Visibility: 10M
Current: Mild
FISH: Long horn cow fish, Devil scorpion fish, Scorpion fish, Long fin lion fish, Blennies, Cardinal fish.
CRUSTACEAN: Mosaic boxer crab, peacock mantis shrimp, Banded shrimp.
Day 10: September 25th, 2017
Our last day on board our beautiful ship. Did not dissapoint. The crew hoisted the ships sails for us to take photos. They even let me live out my life long dream of posing on the bow of the ship. The other guests and cruise directors went out in the chase boats for photos while I possed up top. Silly-yes, but I couldn’t be more stoked! We were taken ashore to a private island which truly looked untouched. Its incredible to walk on pure white sand and not come across trash of any kind. I wish this exsisted at every beach but I am so happy I got to experience at least one in my life time. The crew set up snacks and cocktails. We watched the sunset and enjoyed each others company. It was a perfect evening spent with new friends.
Fun Facts:
Flores was conquered by Portugal which is why it has the largest catholic population in Indonesia.
17 languages spoken throughout Indonesia
Little details and Highlights:
> Daily itineraries presented for the following day after dinner every evening.
> Separate Towels that are color coordinated per activity
- o White-Showers (in room)
- o Red-Main deck (post dive)
- o Brown- Camera Towels
- o Well equipped with charging stations 220v/110v
- o Lots of storage space, no need to keep your gear in your room.
> Camera Handling was impeccable. Every guest agreed the Waow crew had the best camera care and handling of any liveaboard they had ever experienced.
- o Very spacious.
- o The ladders easily accessible. Even for older guests. The porters made it as easy as possible to get in and out of the water for anyone who needed assistance.
- o After a dive we had personal reusable water bottles filled and ready with fresh water.
- o The boat drivers/gear porters were on top of it always. For example, I have a very specific de fog stuff that works best with my mask. I never had to worry about grabbing it, because Gagap ALWAYS had it ready for me. Even if he wasn’t my driver/porter that day. He made sure it was ready for me
> Trip Videos & souvenirs
o On board Videographer Stephan K. Dives along side the guests using RED Digital Cinema’s Scarlet Camera. His set up is quite impressive and the footage speaks for itself.
On the Final night aboard the ship we all gathered in the Galley to watch the video prepared of OUR trip. It was a wonderful surprise and a fantastic keepsake. One that I am sure to cherish forever. Best of all, there was no charge. It was a gift to the Guests from the WAOW.
o Making of the Waow Ship Documentary included in our gift package
o Crew & Guest Photo
On the final day of our Journey we gathered on the Bow for a group photo. The photo was then printed and given to each guest with a lovely personalized note from the crew which included all their signatures. It is a simple gesture of which I am so grateful.
> FULL Crew names and photos posted for quick reference throughout your stay. I found this extremely helpful as I am terrible with names.
- Non Diver Activities
o Paddle boards
o Kayaks
o Large movie and music selections in the cabins
o Card & Board games available in the common areas
- Laundry available on board $1 per item
Special Thanks goes to everyone on board, but especially: "Lory ly ly LY" (Lorine), Petra, Nick, Reefy & my sweet Gagap.
How to Book a Trip to Alor
Bluewater Travel can book you a trip to Alor for the same cost or less than booking any other way. We know the diving, liveaboards, resorts, rooms and when to go better than anyone else!
Email us at info@bluewaterdivetravel.com and let us help you plan your next dive trip.
